Bicol express is a popular dish among residents in the Philippines. It is a very spicy pork stew prepared with garlic, onion, long chilies, coconut milk, and fermented shrimp paste.
The Bicol Express has two different origin tales. The Bicol region of the central Philippines, or Bicolandia as it’s fondly called, is famous for its frequent use of chilies and coconut cream and for meals that lean towards the spicier end of the spectrum. Bicolanos believe that the meal gulay na lada, a local specialty prepared mostly with chilies and other aromatics, served as the model for Bicol express. On the other hand, Cely Kalaw, a restaurant owner in Manila’s Malate neighborhood who was raised in Bicol, according to Virginia Roces de Guzman and Nina Daza Puyat in their book The Philippine Cookbook, created the stew in the 1960s. It is said that diners at Kalaw’s Grove restaurant were grumbling about how spicy Laing, a meal similar to it but with stewed taro leaves, was.
In order to satisfy customers who preferred a milder heat than mouth-numbing heat, Kalaw took the dish, reduced the amount of chiles, and added pork belly, creating the Bicol express (the name was given by Kalaw’s brother in honor of the renowned overnight train that ran from Manila to nearby Bicol).
Since then, Bicol express has become a staple on the menus and dinner tables of Filipino restaurants both domestically and overseas. Even in Bicol, gulay na lada is now referred to as Bicol express.
When I was preparing my recipe for Bicol express, I consulted a Filipino friend of mine who said the recipe should have equal parts pork and chilies. However, I adjusted the proportion by using fewer chilies and came to the decision to use one part fresh Thai chilies and three parts pork shoulder to accommodate my lower tolerance for capsaicin heat. Remember that even though the recipe calls for 10 Thai chilies (which you can replace with jalapenos), adding thick coconut milk and coconut cream considerably reduces the chili intensity. Since balaw is difficult to find in the US, I substitute it for the stew with ginisang bagoong, a fermented shrimp paste that is umami-rich and sautéed with onion, garlic, vinegar, and sugar. This gives the stew a slightly sweeter, more nuanced flavor.
Ingredients
● 2 tablespoons coconut oil
● 1300g boneless, skinless pork shoulder, trimmed and cut into small bits
● 1 medium-size red onion, roughly chopped
● 30 medium-size garlic cloves, minced
● One fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
● One 400ml can unsweetened coconut cream
● One 400ml can unsweetened coconut milk
● 10 fresh red or green Thai chilies, stemmed and finely chopped
● 3 tablespoons ginisang bagoong
● 1 scallion, ends trimmed and sliced thinly, for garnish
● Cooked white rice, for serving
Directions
- Heat oil to shimmering in a sizable Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add half of the pork to the pan with tongs and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, flipping occasionally, until golden brown on all sides. Transfer to a big dish or a baking sheet with a rim and put aside. Repeat with the leftover pork.
- Add onion, garlic, and ginger to the Dutch oven that is now empty. Cook for about 3 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the aromatics are tender. Stir in the reserved pork, coconut cream, and coconut milk until thoroughly mixed. After bringing to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer. Cook for about two hours, stirring occasionally, until liquid is brown and reduced by half and pork is thoroughly soft. Add chilies and ginisang bagoong, and stir.
- Serve rice alongside Bicol Express as soon as it has been transferred to a serving bowl, topped with scallion.